Just a short distance away from the historic gate at Dongdaemun is the Seoul City Wall Museum. It is a short climb up a hill but once you arrive there, it is well worth the effort, allowing you to gain an insightful look at the significance of the walls that once guarded Seoul.
The Seoul City Wall Museum can be found to the north of Heunginjimun, the imposing fortress gate that everyone comes to see at the Dongdaemun district of Korea’s capital city.
While many will make their way to the shopping malls found in the Dongdaemun Market district, or head to Cheonggyecheong, the rejuvenated stream, if you enjoy history with a dose of the outdoors thrown in, do not miss the Seoul City Wall Museum.
Seoul City Wall Museum: More than Just Bricks
As you make your approach to the Seoul City Wall Museum, you will come across a display of stone blocks that were unearthed from Namsan between 2013 and 2015.
Their shape of the blocks differ according to the time periods that they were laid, providing a look at how sections of the wall were built on top of preceding sections.
Stepping inside the museum, the first floor is dedicated to providing an overview of Hanyangdoseong or the Seoul City Wall. The history of the wall goes back six centuries and even though it no longer serves it protective purpose, it is still embraced by the residents of Seoul.
The wall was constructed along the mountain ridges. This was to minimize the disturbance to the natural surroundings while maximising the effectiveness of the structure.
Each time a section of the Hanyangdoseong collapsed, the repairs would be done with more advanced techniques. Over the centuries, this has resulted in the Hanyangdoseong becoming a record of the development of Korean wall building technology and a significant piece of cultural heritage.
The Seoul City Wall Today
It is possible to walk along the Hanyangdoseong trail to explore the extant sections of the wall. And just outside the Seoul City Wall Museum is the Naksan Section of the wall, where you can start your trek.
An interactive panel with a projection on a large viewing screen allows you to learn more about each of the six major sections of the Hanyangdoseong trail and what to expect.
This interactive presentation is a great way to get an introduction to what the city wall is like in the present day. Avid hikers will find themselves itching to get started hiking the Seoul City Wall.
History of Hanyangdoseong, the Seoul City Wall
After getting an overview of the present-day wall, explore the rest of the museum to learn more about the construction of the Seoul City Wall.
To give some historical context, the Joseon dynasty was founded in 1392 and Hanyang, present day Seoul, was chosen as the site of a new capital.
The wall was constructed making use of the the natural topography of the area surrounding the city, going up and down with the hills. Inside the walls, the streets were laid out according to Confucian principles and the major roads were connected to the city wall gates.
Even though the Hanyang was invaded by the Japanese and Manchurians in the 16th and 17th centuries, the basic structure of the wall around the city remained the same.
You can learn more about the methods used to construct the wall at a series of models.
The process started with hardening of the base on which stones would be stacked to make up the wall. If the base was soil, the earth was dug out and either log piles or pebbles were put in. When the base was bedrock, the bedrock would be levelled off to provide a flat base for the wall stones.
Square stone blocks were used to form the two sides of the wall and the space in between would be filled up with pebbles or soil. Parapets would then be built at the top and crowned with roof-stones.
In addition to learning about the city walls, you can also learn about the construction and design of the imposing city gates. These were heavily guarded and fortified as they provided access to the capital city.
In addition to its defensive role, the city wall also served to project royal power. It would be guarded with patrols going up and down the wall every day. The opening and closing of the City Wall Gates according to curfew times also created a rhythm for those living in the city.
In fact, the walls also played a role in demarcating the social status of the citizens.
Those who lived within the wall had privileges exempt from paying taxes and performing conscript labor. However, they had to follow the directives of the state.
The people who lived outside the wall would only be allowed inside when sitting for government examinations, performing work or supplying goods to the capital.
Living inside the wall was once a source of pride for the city’s residents.
Unfortunately, over time, the Hanyangdoseong fell victim to modernization. With the development of new military weapons, the wall could no longer serve as a defensive perimeter.
Urbanization resulted in sections of the wall being torn down. This was especially the case where the wall was on flat ground. The majestic city gates also ended up either being neglected or dismantled.
This decline was exacerbated by Japan’s colonization of Korea. For example in 1918, with the plans to construct a shinto shrine on Namsan Mountain, a large section of the city wall was removed.
Thankfully, there are still sections of the wall preserved today.
Seoul City Wall Museum Review
The Seoul City Wall Museum is a fascinating place to learn more about the historic wall and its significance. It is worth a visit if you are interested in history. After our visit, it felt as if we were able to see Seoul from a new perspective, as an ancient city where the imposing walls played a role alongside the towering mountains to provide a safe harbor for the seat of the Joseon dynasty.
After visiting the museum, you can step outside and you will find yourself on the Naksan section of the city wall with a new appreciation for its significance.
Also be sure to take in the wonderful sight of the city below.
The Seoul City Wall Museum is open from Tuesdays to Sundays and Public Holidays from 9 am to 6 pm. It is closed on Mondays and January 1st. Admission is free. Visit its website here.
If you enjoyed this story, we think that you will also enjoy the story on the Cheonggyecheon Stream.
